In 1971, they both hated hippies with a vengance: 'hippos', McLaren called them. Their interest in fifties clothes had nothing to do with fun or camp. 'It goes without saying', writes Susan Sontag, 'that the Camp sensibility is disengaged, depoliticized - or at least apolitical.' In their different ways, Westwood and McLaren were politicized: this gave them a moral purpose in their approach to clothes.

Fra Jon Savage: England's dreaming (1991)